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Foot and Paddle: Huston Brook Falls

11 mins read
Huston Brook Falls. (All photos by Doug Dunlap)

Month of May! Our high peaks give up the last of the snow, bit by bit, day by day, sending runoff down dozens of stream and river channels. Newly high waters careen over waterfalls ice-locked in winter, but now free and clear. It is a fine time of year to visit one of the many dramatic waterfalls in the Western Maine Mountains.. Let’s go!

On a brisk, bright day, April edging up to May, my wife and I head to Huston Brook Falls in Carrabassett Valley to enjoy a good walk and have a look at what we expect will be the full-throated roar and rush of tumbling spring run-off. Our starting point is the Airport Trailhead on Highway 27, immediately north of the Sugarloaf Airport. The twin high summits of the Bigelow Range, West Peak and Avery Peak rise, snow-topped, in a clear blue sky as we follow the Maine Huts Trail across the open field beyond the upper end of the runway.

Huston Brook Road. Snow-topped Avery Peak in the distance

The Carrabassett River is a-roaring as we reach the footbridge in a walk of 0.2 mile. Swift current slaps against ledge and boulder, frothing white. Spray flies into the air. Quite the sight – and sound.

A trail junction on the far side of the bridge offers four options: Hard right leads 1.0 mile along the river to the settlement of Carrabassett Valley. Diagonal right is the Maine Huts Trail in the direction of Poplar Stream and Poplar Hut. A hard left is the gate way to the Narrow Gauge Pathway, which extends 5.0 miles to the Maine Huts Trailhead beyond the Sugarloaf Access Road on Highway 27. Our choice is diagonal left, the gravel Huston Brook Road. There is no road sign, but the route is clearly marked as a snowmobile trail, with characteristic diamond shaped yellow signs, and other signage. There is also a sign reading that this is the wrong way if one is heading towards Stratton Brook Hut in the Maine Huts System. From this junction the distance to a short side trail to Huston Brook Falls is 1.0 mile.

Before we head out on the Huston Brook Road, we step over to the Narrow Gauge Pathway for a look at Huston Brook itself, where it flows under a footbridge 100’ north of the trails junction. Discovery! A pair of black ducks feed in a small, shaded pool in the brook. Black ducks are more dark brown than black, and from a distance both the male and female resemble a female mallard. These are beautiful birds, and to see them up close is a rare treat. Black ducks display a distinctive white coloration under the wings, which the two are kind enough to display as they lift off over our heads, to wing their way upstream over the Carrabasett River.

Back to the Huston Brook Road, we walk over gently rising terrain, with the peaks of the Bigelow Range ahead above the high pine, fir, and maple that compose much of the surrounding forest. The road is broad, gently rising, with occasional snow patches, but readily walked. To our left, a few rods into the woods, the brook, far smaller than the rowdy Carrabassett, but full and swift here, rattles and rushes.

The sky is bright blue, cloudless. The highway is far behind, and well out of sight. The prevailing sounds are but those of silence, and the brook – which swings in close to the road, then away, until finally, as the road begins a steady rise, the brook disappears into thicker woods above a small pool. We hold silence, listening – and hear a downy woodpecker working a popple; a bit later, a ruffed grouse drumming. Country music!

At 1.0 mile from the river, at a point just short of the crest of the hill we are ascending, a snow-covered path descends to the left through well-shaded woods. There is no sign, but the opening in the trees is distinctive. (When in doubt, if you walk above this point the Huston Brook Road flattens out and the road divides. You have passed the side trail.)

Rocky course of the Carrabassett River.

In contrast to the wide gravel road, this short (0.1 mile) access trail to the falls is narrow and rocky – with the last of the season’s ice and snow crust remaining. There are a few steep pitches. Hold tight to little ones! To avoid slippery spots I make my way down along the edge of the trail. I should mention that I am wearing hiking boots with a good tread – and using trekking poles – because snow and ice lingers in the backcountry for weeks after it has disappeared from most lawns and roadsides.

This route leads to an overlook of the falls and the broad pool at the base of the falls. An even better view is from the (very) small pebble beach at the base of the overlook. I pick my way down the slope. My view from the waters edge is upstream, with the falls tumbling in my direction. The angle of the sun on far-flung spray generates a small rainbow.

In summer I come here for a swim in the pool, making my way over poolside rock with the aid of a trekking pole, before I find a spot where I can to slip into the brisk waters. No swim today, not with snow in the woods. I will be back.

The falls are striking, dropping 12’ into the pool. The air bears cool mist, fresh, clean. The overhead sun brightens the swirling waters. The roar is so loud that conversation does not work – which is fine. I am in a concert hall – no talking anyway! I stand there, taking it all in, listening, watching.

Back at the road, we continue uphill to explore a bit more, arrive at a road junction, and choose to follow the left fork, signed (snowmobile trail) as leading to Stratton. The road descends to cross Huston Brook by a beam and plank bridge. We can hear the downstream falls from the bridge, but the forest hides them from view.

The brook runs swift, utterly clear. We pause here, watch the flow – ageless urge of mountain waters to make a way to the sea.

Coltsfoot wildflowers near Huston Brook

Hesitant to turn around just yet, we walk on, as the road ascends out of the valley of Huston Brook. I spy a bit of gold color among the grays and browns of yet-to-bloom hillside. A first! On the south slope of a side hill bloom “coltsfoot” – a dandelion-looking plant that is one of the first wildflowers of spring. The name comes from leaves in the shape of the hoof of a colt. Such is the order of emergence that the leaves form later than the flower, and we see no leaves today. The square edge at the end of the yellow flowers is another distinctive feature. A sign of spring!

We have had our share of discoveries, and turn for home. Early coolness of the day gives way to warm temperatures. We shed outer layers of clothing and stuff them in the daypack we carry for that purpose. Back at the Carrabassett River we look for the black ducks. They are elsewhere. Another pause at the bridge to watch the river rush under the bridge; from there we make our way to the trailhead and home.

Total distance from parking area to the falls is 1.3 miles (2.6 miles round trip). COVID-19 note: A feature to this route regarding Cornona Virus and social distancing is that most of the route is over first a broad field, and next a wide graveled road. The final 0.1 mile to the falls is a narrow trail, but there is room to step off to allow others to pass.

Want to extend the outing? Walk downstream along the Carrabassett, or head up the Narrow Gauge Pathway. Spring is here. Trails are drying out. The rivers and streams are a-running. Have a look!

Text and photos – Copyright Douglas Allan Dunlap 2020

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2 Comments

  1. Dunlap’s articles are nice addition to the BullDog
    I look forward to them

  2. Really enjoyed this article, Doug. Your descriptive writing allowed me to accompany you on your trek. Thank you!

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